A Pilot Study to Evaluate the Effects of Topically Applied Cosmetic Creams on Epidermal Responses

Application of exogenous products, such as creams, to the skin can result in subclinical changes in selected epidermal functions such as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration, redness, and pH; these changes may lead to or contribute to irritation. Changes in skin surface inflammatory factors may provide further insight into this potential for irritation. The objective of this study was to evaluate the changes in epidermal properties and inflammatory mediators after 4 days of topical application of 2 different polymers formulated in cosmetic creams. Ten healthy volunteers (mean age ± SD: 20.0 ± 2.4 years) completed the study. TEWL, color, and pH were not significantly different after repeated application of these polymers. Hydration was significantly lower at sites treated with polymer A after 5 days. Significant increases in IL-1α, IL-1RA, and IL-1β were observed after cream application at sites treated with polymer A. This is the first study to apply noninvasive measurements to quantify subclinical changes in epidermal properties and inflammatory mediator expression before and after the application of a cosmetic product, which will allow for a more enhanced safety profile to be achieved.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2018;31:269–282